Theses and Dissertations (Consumer Science)

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A comparison of the quality characteristics of goat meat with that of sheep meat
(University of Pretoria, 1989-01) Boshoff, Elizabeth; Naude, R.T.; Schonfeldt, H.C. (Hettie Carina)
The purpose of this study was to ascertain how the quality characteristics of Angora and Boer goat meat compare with those of sheep meat. The quality characteristics of the Mm. longissimus thoracis et lumborum of the various age groups and fat codes of Angora and Boer goat meat, prepared according to a dry heat cooking method, were compared with those of the identically prepared Mm. longissimus thoracis et lumborum of the corresponding age groups and fat codes of sheep meat. Thereupon the quality characteristics of the M. semimembranosus of the various age groups and fat codes of Angora and Boer goat meat, prepared according to a moist heat cooking method, were compared with those of the identically prepared M. semimembranosus of the comparable various age groups and fat codes of sheep meat. Triplicate sets of comparable cuts from each age group and fat code were evaluated, thus 27 sheep, 27 Angora and 27 Boer goats were compared. Species affected cooking yield. Sheep meat showed significantly greater drip loss than Boer and Angora goat meat and more evaporation loss than Angora goat meat. On the other hand, sheep and Boer goat meat had greater total cooking losses than Angora meat. The aroma of the sheep meat was more intense, it was more juicy, more tender, contained less fibrous tissue residue, the flavour was more acceptable and the species flavour more typical than that of the Angora and Boer goat meat. The Angora goat meat was more juicy, more tender and contained less fibrous tissue residue than the Boer goat cuts. This was confirmed by the expressible moisture and shear force resistance measurements, respectively. Sheep meat contained more expressible moisture than the goat meat. Sheep meat showed less resistance to shear force than Angora meat, which in turn showed less resistance than Boer goat meat. Goat meat contained more collagen and the collagen was less soluble than that of sheep meat. The age of the various animals affected the cooking losses. Drip loss increased significantly with increasing age. Evaporation and total cooking losses also showed a tendency to increase with age. These were particularly noticeable in the M. semimembranosus cuts. The meat of animals of the A age group was juicier, more tender, contained less tissue less typical expressible residue, the flavour was more acceptable and the species flavour than that of the Band Cage groups. This was confirmed by the moisture and shear force resistance measurements. Meat of animals of the A age group contained more expressible moisture than meat from the B and C age groups. Meat from animals of the A age group also showed less resistance to shear force than that of the Band Cage groups. There was a significant decrease in collagen solubility of muscles with increasing age of the animal. This can be ascribed to the known increase in the number of crosslinks in the collagen fibrils that occur with increasing age of the animal, resulting in increased resistance to shearing and chewing of the meat. The protein and dry matter content of the cooked cuts increased, while the moisture and ash content decreased with an increase in age. Cooking yields of meat cuts were closely related to the fat codes of the various carcases. Higher drip, evaporation and total cooking losses were found as the fat codes of cuts increased. With increased fatness of carcases, the juiciness of the cooked cuts tended to decrease and the tenderness and species flavour to increase. The collagen solubility tended to increase and content to decrease with increased fatness. The latter may be ascribed to the increase of muscle fibre volume during the growth of the animal. fatness iv Hence, a decrease in the resistance to shear force with increased was found. With increasing level of fatness, the cuts contained less moisture, more fat and increased amounts of dry matter. This study confirms that goat meat is unique and should not be grouped with meat from comparable sheep having the same maturity and fatness levels with regard quality to palatability attributes. Significant differences exist between the characteristics of sheep on the one hand, and Angora and Boer goat meat on the other. The aroma of the sheep meat is more intense, it is more juicy, more tender, contains less fibrous tissue residue and the species flavour is more pronounced (typical) than that found in Angora and Boer goat meat. In general, the meat from goat carcases was found to be significantly less acceptable than that from sheep carcases, the Angora to a lesser extent, however, than the Boer goat. As was anticipated this study confirms the fact that the meat of younger animals is more juicy, more tender, contains less fibrous tissue residue during chewing and the species flavour is less typical than that of older animals. This was irrespective of the fact whether it was obtained from sheep, Angora or Boer goat. Significant differences in the palatability attributes were found with an increase in the fatness (fat codes) of the animals. With increasing fatness, the juiciness of the cooked cuts tended tc, decrease and the tenderness and species flavour to increase.
Effect of age on beef quality
(University of Pretoria, 1998-02) Naude, R.T.; Boshoff, Elizabeth; Schonfeldt, H.C. (Hettie Carina)
English: A systematic description of the physical composition, eating and nutritional quality characteristics of South African beef has not been attempted before. Beef carcasses (n = 156) representing three age groups (A, B and C) and the full spectrum in fatness within each age group, as obtained on the commercial market were used. Each carcass side was divided into 15 retail cuts. To ensure that the effect of animal age (as defined in the current South African classification system) was accurately reflected, the fat content of carcasses was used as covariant in all the statistical analyses. The physical composition (proportion of subcutaneous fat, meat and bone) was assessed and proximate analyses (percentage total moisture, fat, nitrogen and ash) were performed on the deboned tissue of each cut of the right sides of carcasses. Total fat and muscle content for each cut were subsequently calculated. The bone and meat content of the different cuts within the same carcass varied considerably. In general the relative meat content decreased and bone content increased in older animals (C-age). A large variation in compositional and chemical characteristics for the various cuts for the three age groups was observed. On average the fore and hind shins contained the lowest amount of chemical fat, followed by the fillet and thick flank. The collagen content and solubility of muscles of electrically stimulated (500 V) left sides of beef carcasses (n = 41) were determined. Cuts (n = 61 left sides of carcasses) were cooked according to an appropriate dry (prime rib, wing rib, loin, M semitendinosus in the silverside, rump, topside and fillet) or moist (M. gluteobiceps in the silverside, thick flank, chuck, brisket, neck, shoulder, thin flank and the hind and fore-shins) heat cooking method, at an oven temperature of l 60°C, to an internal temperature of 70°C. Cooking losses were determined and shear force resistance and proximate analyses (percentages total moisture, fat, nitrogen and ash) were performed. A trained, ten-member panel, using an eight-point scale evaluated sensory quality characteristics. Tenderness, residue, collagen solubility, flavour and initial impression of juiciness of all cuts decreased significantly and cooking losses and sustained juiciness increased (although not linearly) with increasing animal age. Animal age did not have a significant effect on the collagen content of muscles. Cuts cooked using a dry heat cooking method were juicier (both initial and sustained) than those cooked using a moist heat cooking method. Composite samples of three similar cuts from three different age groups were analysed on a double blind basis by various laboratories. The physical composition (proportion of subcutaneous fat, meat and bone) of each right side cut was assessed, while each left side cut was cooked prior to nutrient analyses. All cuts (subcutaneous fat plus meat; n = 270 for raw and n = 270 for cooked cuts) were analysed for proximate composition (moisture, protein, and fat), minerals (phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, copper, zinc, manganese and iron), water-soluble vitamins (thiamin, riboflavin, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, folic acid, cyanocobalamin, biotin and calcium pantothenate) and amino acids (including tryptophan and cystine ). Lysine and iron were higher and linoleic acid lower in the C-age group animals than in A- or 8-age animals for both raw and cooked cuts. The attributes that mostly discriminated between the different cuts within the same carcass were hydroxyproline, glycine and some minerals (phosphorus, potassium and magnesium). Meaningful recommendations concerning meat can now be made on valid South African data to include the full diversity of the population, i.e. the higher iron content in C-aged animals, that are probably more affordable to people most likely to suffer from iron deficiency anemia. Lean meat provides significant amounts of the dietary nutrients required in a healthy diet. The protein is of a high quality and quantity, and many essential vitamins (such as vitamin 8 12) and minerals (such as iron) are present in sufficient quantities. People that are more concerned about the eating quality attributes and are prepared to pay a premium can also be advised accordingly.
Investigating outputs from university-industry-government collaborations in the Technology Station Clothing and Textiles of the Western Cape, South Africa
(University of Pretoria, 2023-04) Mbatha, Sipho; Thurner, Thomas Wolfgang; Sonnenberg, Nadine Cynthia; u15207839@tuks.co.za; Sihlobo, Sinqobile Thokozani Loyiso
University-industry-government (UIG) collaborations are vital because they provide solutions to structural problems arising from challenges in higher education, research and development (R&D), and competitiveness. However, the literature on UIG collaboration outputs, specifically in the clothing, textiles, leather, and footwear (CTLF) industry, is limited in the Global South context. UIG collaborations are vital to the clothing and textiles industry because the value chain's success links are market access advantages, the value chain capabilities, and the success of government CTLF industry policies and incentives. The research institution, Technology Station in Clothing and Textiles (TSCT) in Western Cape, South Africa, was purposively sampled out of 18 South African technology stations to gather data regarding the UIG collaboration outputs. A case study research design was used because there is limited research on UIG collaboration outputs in the CTLF industry in the Western Cape, South Africa, Africa, and the world. The case study allowed for vast application and exploration to investigate a social phenomenon such as the TSCT by combining multiple forms of data using the qualitative methodology. The qualitative methodology was used because it allowed the research problem to be studied to understand a new phenomenon and analyse themes and conduct an inquiry reflexively. Data collection was conducted through document analysis and semi-structured in-depth interviews. The document analysis collection was in documents, infographics, photographs, and media articles from the websites with TSCT and TIA content. Interviews were conducted with the head of the Technology Stations Programme, who deals with all 18 Technology Stations, and one Technology Stations Programme (TSP) manager, who deals with a third (six) of the Technology Stations, with one being the TSCT. Then an interview was conducted with the Manager of TSCT who deals with the TIA, CPUT, and other various industry and government institutions. Thematic analysis was employed to analyse themes within the data using ATLAS.ti computer software. The researcher sought whether academic and socio-economic outputs led to tangible outcomes that solved structural problems. This study used Kruss and Visser's (2017) traditional academic and socio-economic outputs. This study found that most academic outputs are moderate in quality at the TSCT. Scientific discoveries and graduates with relevant skills had good quality. However, there were no senior postgraduate degrees available. For the socio-economic outputs, new and improved products and processes had good quality, while community infrastructure and facilities had moderate quality. However, no account of spin-off companies or cultural artefacts contributed to socio-economic benefit. The TSCT has seen success in the past, however, in a post-pandemic world, their current approach could possibly not survive if they do not consider restructuring. The TSCT Western Cape must figure out how to use outputs as a means for the Western Cape to be sought for to specific designs of speciality and create new international markets for uniqueness. In essence, the TSCT will benefit academically and socio-economically if the collaboration of the UIG outputs improves. It depends on the TIA's commitment to other government departments, organisations, and companies to invest in the TSCT.
The influence of lifestyle and consumption values on the second-hand clothing buying behaviour of consumers in South Africa
(University of Pretoria, 2024) Taljaard-Swart, Hanri; Jacobs, B.M. (Bertha Margaretha); amieke.visser@gmail.com; Visser, Amieke
The overall aim of this study was to explore and describe the influence of lifestyle orientations and consumption values on second-hand clothing buying in South Africa. Specific focus was placed on offline buying settings such as second-hand stores/ thrift markets, as they seem to be popular second-hand buying options. Special attention was paid to lifestyle orientations, namely Principle orientations (i.e., Thinkers and Believers), Status orientations (i.e., Innovators, Achievers, Strivers and Survivors), and Action orientations (i.e., Experiencers and Makers), as well as consumption values, namely Emotional value, Social value, Epistemic value, Environmental value, and Functional value and its influence on consumers’ second-hand clothing buying behaviour. This study employed a quantitative research approach with a cross-sectional survey design for exploratory and descriptive purposes. Furthermore, respondents were recruited using non-probability, convenience and snowball sampling techniques. An online, self-administered questionnaire was developed on Qualtrics from existing scales that were adopted and adapted for the purpose of this study. Ultimately, the completion rate totalled 524. Exploratory and confirmatory (first and second-order) factor analyses (EFAs and CFAs) were performed to isolate the relevant constructs and confirm the factorial validity of the model. After performing multiple EFAs and first-order CFAs, 11 factors were extracted and labelled as follows: Makers, Believers, Strivers, Innovators2.0, Experiencers, Environmental value, Social value, second-hand buying, Functional value, Emotional value and Achievers. Thereafter, two second-order CFAs were performed to further improve the model fit and ensure only the most significant constructs remain. The second-order CFA was necessary to determine whether the first-order constructs are indeed true reflections of the higher-order constructs (i.e., lifestyle and consumption values). The initial second-order CFA achieved a sufficient model fit; however, in order to achieve an excellent model fit, some constructs had to be discarded. The final second-order CFA was performed, and in terms of the lifestyle segments, Innovators, Experiencers and Achievers all presented sufficient factor loadings. Additionally, in terms of the consumption values, Environmental value, Emotional value and Social value all presented sufficient factor loadings. Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) was also performed to determine whether lifestyle segments, comprising Innovators, Experiencers and Achievers, influence consumption values (i.e., Environmental, Emotional and Social values) and subsequently, whether these consumption values (together with the influence of lifestyle segments) influence second-hand clothing buying behaviours. It should be noted that the intention of this study was not to generalise the findings but rather to discover whether any lifestyle orientations and/or consumption values influence consumers’ second-hand clothing buying behaviour in offline buying settings. Findings suggested that less than half of the respondents buy second-hand clothing or are partial to it, whereas more than half of the respondents indicated that they do not buy or are not partial to buying second-hand clothing. Furthermore, the distribution of the most popular buying settings among second-hand buyers was more or less equally divided among second-hand stores, thrift markets and online second-hand stores, with offline settings accounting for two-thirds. Based on the extensive analyses that were conducted for this study, consumers who buy second-hand clothing in offline buying settings are predominantly Innovators, Experiencers and Achievers who derive Emotional value and, to some extent, Environmental and Social value from purchasing and consuming second-hand clothing in the South African context. These consumers are more likely to be aspirational and seek new things that make them look and feel good. They most likely also enjoy events such as thrift markets where they can connect with like-minded people and experience a certain lifestyle. They make decisions based on emotion and derive value from products that are less harmful to the environment. In conclusion, the theoretical contribution of this study is thus of significance as this study combines lifestyle orientation and consumption value research to ultimately establish which and why specific consumer lifestyle segments purchase second-hand clothing at offline buying settings within the South African context. In addition, this study provides second-hand store/ thrift market owners and marketers with information on the three most significant lifestyle segments (i.e. Innovators2.0, Achievers and Experiencers) that already participate in the buying of second-hand clothing together with what consumption values they derive from buying it. Therefore, by using the results from this study, they can better understand why these consumers' lifestyle segments buy second-hand clothing and ultimately make sure that they market it in a way to retain loyal customers. In addition, results from this study provide them with information on the other lifestyle segments that do not yet buy second-hand clothing. With this information, second-hand store/ thrift market owners and marketers could determine why these consumer lifestyle segments do not buy second-hand clothing and potentially persuade and target them to ultimately broaden their target market.
The clothing shopping behaviour of young females before, during and after the COVID-19 pandemic in Gauteng
(University of Pretoria, 2024-01-01) Jacobs, B.M. (Bertha Margaretha); Marx-Pienaar, Nadene J.M.M.; angeliz.venter@gmail.com; Venter, Angeliz
The overall objective of this study was to explore and describe young females’ clothing shopping behaviour before, during and after the COVID-19 restrictions in South Africa. The research focused more specifically on their clothing buying practices and shopping styles before, during and after COVID-19 restrictions. Clothing buying behaviour is highly dependent on the consumer, product, marketing and situational characteristics and can take on different forms, for example habitual or complex. Changes in shopping behaviour were evident during the COVID-19 pandemic as restrictions caused consumers to switch buying channels, change brands due to unavailability, and limit their frequency of shopping. Clothing retailers needed to adapt quickly to how they sold to their customers during and after the COVID-19 restrictions to retain brand loyalty and avoid becoming irrelevant in a short amount of time. The COVID-19 pandemic provided a unique situation to understand changes in how, where and what consumers shop. Shopping styles are used by retailers and marketers as predictors and indicators to understand consumers’ orientation towards brands, price, quality, and experiences. Based on their shopping styles consumers are then segmented and retailers aim to serve them better to ultimately maximise their profit. Sproles and Kendall’s (1986) developed a consumer style inventory (CSI) consisting of eight shopping styles: 1) perfectionist and high-quality conscious, (2) brand conscious and price equals quality, (3) novelty and fashion conscious, (4) recreational and hedonic conscious, (5) price conscious or value for money, (6) impulsive and careless, (7) confused by over-choice, and (8) habitual and brand loyal. By using Sproles and Kendall’s model of different shopping styles, it is assumed that consumers have different approaches and outlooks towards shopping through any channel. A survey research design was followed. Data were collected with an online self-administered questionnaire from two samples in 2020 and again in 2023. Data were collected in 2020 and 2023 from convenience samples of young females (between 18-35 years) living in Gauteng, South Africa, to explore how their clothing buying practices (i.e., frequency of shopping, channels of shopping and clothing categories) and shopping styles (i.e., eight styles from Sproles and Kendall) changed within the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, as well as during and after the COVID-19 restrictions were lifted. For Study 2020, an online questionnaire was distributed to respondents during the COVID-19 restriction as part of a larger study focused on food and clothing consumer behaviour, and 188 questionnaires were usable. For Study 2023, an online questionnaire on only clothing buying practices and shopping styles was distributed, and 184 usable questionnaires were obtained. The data analysis was done in correspondence with a statistician to ensure the reliability, accuracy and validity of all the data collected. This was done by systematically applying logic to the data that has been captured and utilising statistical methods to evaluate this data (Creswell, 2013). SPSS 29 (Statistical Package for the Social Sciences) was used to analyse the data successfully. The use of descriptive statistical analysis also made way for an investigation into female South African consumers’ shopping styles and shopping frequency, as well as for a description of the sample and their purchasing behaviour before, during and after the COVID-19 pandemic. The results of the descriptive analysis were displayed in graphical and tabular format to facilitate the reader's understanding and conclude the research objectives (Cooper & Schindler, 2014). The theoretical constructs were used to determine the means and Cronbach’s alphas. Young female consumers indicated that they mostly shopped seasonally for clothing during the COVID-19 restrictions, in contrast to the majority of them indicating that they shopped 2-3 times a month for clothing before the COVID-19 restrictions. In line with international studies and other relevant studies in South Africa, young female consumers indicated that their preferred shopping channel before the COVID-19 restrictions was in-store shopping. However, during the COVID-19 restrictions, they switched to online shopping. After the COVID-19 restrictions were lifted, they indicated that they prefer to shop in-store again but also now have a hybrid shopping model (i.e., in-store and online). Regarding the clothing categories young female consumers shopped for in South Africa before, during and after the COVID-19 pandemic, school uniforms were the most shopped for during all three times. This is because schools in South Africa were only closed momentarily due to the COVID-19 restrictions during alert level 5, from 26 March 2021 to 18 May 2021, when the South African government let children return to school in phases, starting with Grade 12. There was a change in shopping styles for young female consumers in South Africa from before and during the COVID-19 pandemic, except for the impulsive, careless, and confused by over choice shopping style. There was also a change in shopping styles for brand conscious and price equals quality, novelty and fashion conscious, price and value for money conscious, impulsive and careless and habitual and brand loyal shopping styles during and after the COVID-19 restrictions. The perfectionist and high-quality conscious, recreational and hedonic conscious and confused by over-choice shopping styles did not experience any change during and after the COVID-19 restrictions. Lastly, only four of the eight predetermined shopping styles, namely perfectionist and high-quality conscious, novelty and fashion conscious, recreational and hedonic conscious and impulsive and careless shopping styles changed from before the COVID-19 restrictions to after the COVID-19 restrictions. This indicates that they changed their shopping style briefly during the restrictions due to different stressors, and when their environment returned to a “normal” state, their shopping behaviour and style also adjusted back to how it was before the COVID-19 pandemic. This result aids retailers in Gauteng to understand their target markets better and how they react in emergency events. This indicates that retailers and brands need an emergency plan for black swan events but should not change their whole business plan and structure, as consumers will most likely return to their normal shopping behaviour. It was evident that the COVID-19 restrictions heavily impacted young female consumers in Gauteng. It is also evident that international trends and studies can be used as a baseline for South Africa but cannot be applied due to the different economic development and climate of the South African market and different consumer needs compared to other international consumers. This gives industry role players in South Africa and, more specifically, in Gauteng, knowledge on how to prepare for future unprecedented events.
Exploring generational cohorts’ engagement in voluntary simplistic clothing consumption practices in the South African emerging market context
(University of Pretoria, 2023-12-11) Sonnenberg, Nadine Cynthia; nicole10conradie@gmail.com; Conradie, Nicolé
In a developing country such as South Africa, consumption is vital in boosting economic growth and creating job opportunities. However, growing concerns exist about how the existing fast fashion model encourages excessive consumption and generates vast amounts of waste. With the onset of industrialisation, human actions have significantly impacted the climate in unprecedented ways. The fashion industry is expanding rapidly despite its well-known adverse effects on the environment. Fast fashion substantially contributes to this growth, relying on low-cost production, frequent consumption, and short garment lifecycles. However, many people worldwide have recently become aware of the impact of excessive consumption. The pandemic highlighted resource scarcities, leading to expected changes in consumer behaviour. The COVID-19 pandemic is likely the impetus for a transition towards sustainable consumption (Cinar, 2020; Cohen, 2020). Sustainability is closely linked to voluntary simplicity and is gaining global attention, particularly in the fashion industry. Voluntary simplicity promotes a simple way of life that focuses on essential consumption rather than excessive consumption. However, voluntary simplistic consumption, especially in the fashion industry, has yet to be extensively explored, particularly regarding generational cohorts' differences in the local context. Additionally, research has not determined consumers' inclination towards voluntary simplistic clothing consumption practices, specifically during the COVID-19 pandemic. Therefore, this research explores generational cohorts’ engagement in voluntary simplistic clothing consumption practices in the local South African context. A review of existing literature highlights five voluntary simplicity dimensions initially proposed by Elgin and Mitchell (1977). These dimensions were later used by Leonard-Barton (1981) to develop a behavioural index on which the scale items for this study were based. During the initial data generation, questionnaire development and collection commenced in 2021 as part of a larger final-year Clothing Retail management research project in the Department of Consumer and Food Sciences at the University of Pretoria. The scale items used were derived from existing scales developed and adapted by Reis (2019), Taljaard and Sonnenberg (2019) and Taljaard (2020) to measure voluntary simplistic clothing consumption behaviour. Hence, the voluntary simplistic dimensions of material simplicity, self-determination, ecological awareness, and human scale were revised for clothing practices in particular and used as a foundation for this study. The research utilised an online survey that was self-administered and distributed via Qualtrics. The survey questionnaire consisted of seven sections, but only two of these were used for this study, specifically those that measured voluntary simplistic (sustainable) clothing consumption and demographics. A total of 788 questionnaire responses were considered satisfactory and formed part of the final dataset for this study. The project adopted a quantitative approach using a cross-sectional survey that predominantly served exploratory purposes. The data analysis followed a descriptive approach to highlight the demographic profile of the sample and exploratory factor analysis (Centobelli et al., 2022) to determine underlying factors in the voluntary simplistic clothing consumption data. After that, a one-way analysis of variances (Inanova et al., 2019) was implemented to determine any significant differences in generational cohorts’ engagement in voluntary simplistic clothing consumption practices. The EFA revealed a five-factor solution with well-isolated loadings. The five factors were subsequently labelled as “Ethical and Sustainable Clothing Consumption”, “Handcrafted Clothing Consumption”, “Reduced Consumption”, “Locally Produced Clothing”, and “Repurposed Clothing”. The most statistically prominent factor, namely “Reduced clothing consumption”, may stem from the initial data gathered during the COVID-19 pandemic, when consumption was limited and consumer spending was restricted. Overall, respondents seem to engage in all five consumption practices moderately to more frequently. Moreover, this study's findings indicated that, compared to younger generations, older generations, such as Baby Boomers, are more inclined to engage in reduced consumption behaviour, repurpose/ repair unwanted clothing and support ethical and local clothing alternatives. In theory, Baby Boomers are said to be more interdependent than younger generations. Interdependent individuals tend to exhibit higher ethical standards and demonstrate increased concern for community issues. Consequently, they tend to experience greater guilt when faced with ethical dilemmas, leading them to act (Ham et al., 2022). These results accentuate Mannheim’s (1970) Generational Cohort Theory (GCT), which emphasises the interconnectedness of individuals of the same generation and their shared experiences, behaviour, and attitudes through historical events. The findings of this study can provide a practical foundation for profiling local consumers who engage in voluntary simplistic clothing consumption behaviour. This can allow marketers to refine their marketing strategies, especially about generational cohorts. The comprehension gained from this study could further equip local clothing businesses with the necessary tools to achieve their sustainability goals through effective marketing of sustainable alternatives. Theoretically, the study narrows a gap in the current literature surrounding the value of the GCT in interpreting various generational cohorts’ voluntary simplistic clothing consumption practices, specifically in the local emerging market context. Future research could focus on expanding the results of this study by incorporating more representative samples and establishing whether voluntary simplistic consumption practices have endured beyond the COVID-19 pandemic restrictions.
The role of Westernisation in Xhosa women's beauty ideals, everyday dress practices and acculturation strategies
(University of Pretoria, 2023) Jacobs, B.M. (Bertha Margaretha); zandile.zamela@gmail.com; Zamela, Zandile
Westernisation has been proven to play a role in the everyday practices of different cultural groups around the world. The role of Westernisation is especially evident in how people dress by adopting Western clothing and fashion. Over time, Westernisation has culturally influenced groups of people on a material and non-material level as the ideas of Western society have spilt over into what is considered beautiful and into modern dress practices, for example. Through a cultural perspective, this study aimed to explore and describe the role of Westernisation, specifically in Xhosa women’s beauty ideals, their everyday dress practices, and the acculturation strategies they adopt related to dress. Acculturation refers to the different possible outcomes when two cultural groups encounter each other through physical contact or remotely (remote acculturation) through social media and other remote social platforms (Ferguson & Bornstein, 2012). The Xhosa people are one of the prominent cultural groups in South Africa. They have rich traditional dress practices, which are a form of material culture used to symbolise and express their non-material culture: their beliefs, ideologies, and way of life. These Xhosa dress practices are often reserved for special occasions and are no longer prevalent in everyday life. This prompted the question of Westernisation's role in this cultural group’s current non-material (beauty ideals through beauty standards) and material culture (dress practices). Women were the focus of this study because of the historically greater influence that dress has on female consumers. This study looked at their beauty ideals and whether they translated into some of their dress practices. It also focused on the acculturation strategies (outcomes) they adopted in their everyday dress practices. Literature has stipulated that there are four possible acculturation strategies: integration, assimilation, separation, and marginalisation and this study explored which of these outcomes were adopted by Xhosa women in their dress practices. A survey research design was followed for this study, using a quantitative approach. This study was explorative and used descriptive and inferential statistics to analyse the data collected through an online questionnaire generated through Qualtrics using adapted and self-created scales. A total of 295 Xhosa women who lived or grew up in the Eastern Cape, Western Cape, or Gauteng provinces in South Africa and between the ages of 18 and 55 years old completed the questionnaire. Descriptive statistics were used to analyse data relating to beauty ideals and dress practices, and inferential statistics were used to analyse data relating to acculturation strategies. An exploratory factor analysis (EFA) and cluster analysis were used in the latter. The study focused on body size, body shape, skin tone and hair texture as aspects of beauty standards and found that Xhosa women only preferred body size as an aspect of Westernised beauty standards. For the other three explored aspects of beauty standards, they preferred the features related to Xhosa beauty standards. The findings showed that Xhosa women’s body modifications reflected their beauty standard preferences. Their body enclosures reflected more Westernised dress practices, and their use of attachments to the body reflected an almost neutral practice between Westernised and Xhosa dress practices, with a slight inclination towards Xhosa accessories. In addition, the findings showed that, unlike the traditional acculturation theory of four acculturation outcomes, this group of Xhosa women formed three acculturation strategy groups. For these Xhosa women, the acculturation strategies were not mutually exclusive, showing that acculturation strategies will not always form clean-cut groups; instead, they can be a merge or combination of the different acculturation strategies. The findings revealed that Xhosa women have a desire to wear clothing that combines their culture with Westernised culture. Xhosa women have moved away from the desire to regularly wear their traditional attire as it is. This means that to preserve Xhosa dress practices in the everyday, more modernised versions of the Xhosa aesthetics in clothing are needed., This also highlights the need to archive the traditional Xhosa attire in the form of pictures and actual clothing pieces that make up the traditional Xhosa women’s attire. These can be displayed on mannequins in museums in the Eastern Cape, where most Xhosa people reside, as archives for future generations and inspiration for future designers with an interest in cultural preservation. This study suggests that there may be elements of the Xhosa aesthetic in future clothing, but it will not be the traditional version.
The influence of drivers and barriers on female consumers’ in-store collaborative clothing consumption practices in an emerging market context
(University of Pretoria, 2024-02-14) Taljaard-Swart, Hanri; Jacobs, Bertha; sueannbotes@gmail.com; Botes, Sue-Ann
This study aimed to explore and describe the motivational drivers and barriers that influence female consumers’ in-store collaborative clothing consumption (CCC) practices in an emerging market context. Specific focus was placed on in-store buying settings, namely renting and second-hand buying, as these seem to be the more popular CCC options to date. Special attention was paid to the motivational drivers, namely hedonic dimensions, the need for uniqueness and social identity and community, as well as barriers, namely unfamiliarity of the concept, materialism and store image, relating to female consumers’ in-store CCC practices. CCC falls under the larger umbrella term of a ‘sharing economy’ and can be described as the sharing, borrowing, lending, selling and buying of previously owned clothing items. This notion could counteract overconsumption in that consumers extend the life cycle of clothing and opt to rent or buy second-hand clothing rather than buying fashion items and potentially discarding them prematurely. By participating in CCC practices, consumers could contribute to economic growth within local communities and also alleviate the environmental and social impacts of the clothing and textile industry. Based on this, research relating to CCC practices, is therefore necessary in an emerging market context as most of the research currently relates to the more developed countries. A quantitative research approach with a cross-sectional survey design was used for exploratory and descriptive purposes to reach respondents using non-probability, convenience and snowball sampling techniques. An online, self-administered questionnaire was developed on Qualtrics from existing scales that were adapted for this study. A sample of 540 females (over the age of 18, living in South Africa) who participate in in-store CCC practices (i.e., renting and second-hand buying) was collected. Descriptive statistics were conducted and revealed that 107 females prefer renting and 433 females prefer second-hand buying. Cross tabulations revealed that females from Generation Z (19-24) had a penchant for second-hand buying, while Millennials (25-34) also leaned toward it, but to a lesser extent. The older age groups showed reduced engagement in CCC practices but preferred renting. In terms of qualifications, tertiary degree/diploma holders exhibited a preference for renting, while those with Grade 12 leaned more towards second-hand buying, and postgraduate respondents were evenly distributed. The results also highlighted that lower income groups prefer second-hand buying, whereas higher income brackets lean towards renting, suggesting a preference for temporary ownership among older, financially stable individuals. Due to limitations regarding the minimum sample size for inferential statistics, the renting sample was deemed too small and therefore further inferential data analysis was conducted on the 433 female consumers who prefer buying second-hand clothing. Exploratory and confirmatory factor analyses were performed to isolate the relevant constructs and confirm the factorial validity of the model. The six factors that were extracted and deemed significant were labelled as follows: social hedonic dimensions, need for uniqueness, unfamiliarity with the concept, materialism, store image and second-hand buying. Structural equation modelling was also performed to determine which drivers and/or barriers influence second-hand buying as part of CCC practices. Results indicated that social hedonic dimensions is a positive driver and unfamiliarity of the concept is a barrier to in-store second-hand clothing purchases. Essentially female consumers buy second-hand clothing because they enjoy it and like belonging to a social group with similar interests. On the other hand, female consumers are still hesitant to buy second-hand clothing in-store because they are not fully aware of the entirety of CCC practices and what it entails. The need for uniqueness, materialism and store image displayed weak or insignificant associations. Ultimately, the study delineated key demographic patterns and identified significant motivational drivers and barriers relating to in-store second-hand buying of clothing among female consumers, offering insights for future research in the realm of CCC practices. This study is expected to aid in the adoption of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), specifically, those relating to sustainable production and consumption, by presenting consumers and businesses with ways in which CCC practices could be adopted more easily and also assist businesses in minimising the barriers that are linked to collaborative clothing practices.
Influential factors that contribute to consumers’ choice of children’s underwear in an effort to alleviate sensory overreactivity
(University of Pretoria, 2023-11-13) Diedericks, Lizette; van Niekerk, Karin; lizette.diedericks@up.ac.za; Gouws, Leoné
Numerous children exhibit heightened sensitivity to sensory stimuli, leading to the possibility of them experiencing sensory overreactivity (also known as hypersensitivity) in response to such stimuli (Ilić-Savić, Petrović-Lazić & Resimić, 2021). While this is frequently associated with children with special needs, it's also prevalent among typically developing children. In situations where a child encounters sensory discomfort or agitation, the nervous system can react with either a "fight" response, evident through actions like tantrums, or a "flight" response, characterized by withdrawal. Clothing, that remains in close contact with the body, consistently delivers sensory input (Shin & Gaines, 2018). Underwear is often referred to as the "second skin," given its role as the initial clothing layer. Underwear contains elements such as seams and labels, which can be particularly distressing for children sensitive to touch (Roy, Ghosh & Bhatt, 2018). If the individual wearing them struggles to redirect their focus from the discomforting sensation, they may react excessively. This heightened response significantly impacts their occupational performance in education, social participation, and activities of daily living (Kabel, McBee-Black & Dimka, 2016). South Africa is not yet equipped to satisfy the unique and diverse needs of these children, comfortable and sensory-friendly clothing, being one of those (Pillay, Duncan & de Vries, 2021). Currently, parents and caregivers of children with sensory overreactivity might be struggling to find sensory-friendly underpants in the local market. South African retailers might not consider these special needs when designing and/or procuring their underpants collections or do not see the endeavour worthwhile. This interdisciplinary study aimed to get a better idea of the elements that influence underpants shopping for children with sensory overreactivity to provide practical guidelines to parents of children with sensory overreactivity when purchasing underpants. The study consisted of two phases. The first phase was an artefact analysis of a selection of girl and boy underpants from leading clothing retailers operating in South Africa. This phase involved an assessment of products, entailing a comparison of various attributes such as fibre composition, elastics, seams, and labelling. A total of thirty-six diverse samples were subjected to evaluation. The subsequent, main phase of the study followed a phenomenological investigative approach and comprised eleven individual interviews. The unit of analysis was parents of children aged between 4 and 13, who exhibited sensory overreactivity. Both phases are classified as qualitative research (Nieuwenhuis, 2019:102, 108). The findings unveiled fabric types, elastic materials, seam styles, and labelling that are susceptible to irritation, as well as those that offer more sensory-friendly alternatives. Intriguingly, elements chosen for decorative purposes in girls' underwear often ended up being highly discomforting. It was evident that parents struggle with buying underwear for their children, and factors like the ability to try on the underwear and return policies significantly influence the perceived risk for parents. It was apparent that sensory-friendly choices are lacking among the offerings of brick-and-mortar clothing retailers in South Africa. This study provides practical guidelines to assist parents during their underwear shopping endeavours. Such guidelines have the potential to alleviate the perceived risk associated with underwear purchases, empowering parents to make more well-informed decisions (Mpinganjira, 2013:234). Moreover, the study makes a noteworthy contribution to the retail sector by potentially aiding in designing and sourcing underpants for children with sensory overreactivity. This contribution could enable retailers to establish a competitive edge by providing a product with enhanced value to consumers in comparison to their competitors. The findings of this study address an important theoretical gap in the existing literature and create a basis for further research.
The quest for wheat flour alternatives : sensory characterisation and volatile compound profiling of composite flours and flatbread from sorghum, cassava and cowpea flours
(University of Pretoria, 2023) De Kock, Henrietta Letitia; Kayitesi, Eugenie; Aisala, Heikki; ritaboadankwa@gmail.com; Dankwa, Rita
Sorghum, cowpea, and cassava are underutilised gluten-free sources of flour that have the potential to be used in bread products in sub-Saharan Africa. Heavy reliance of sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) on wheat imports and the Russian-Ukraine crises affect the economies of countries in sub-Saharan Africa, driving the search to explore new flour ingredients from climate-resilient crops locally produced in sub-Saharan African countries for wheat-based bread products. To extend the use of sorghum, cowpea, and cassava flours toward bread production, it is vital that the sensory properties of bread produced from these flours are better understood in order to develop non gluten-containing bread that can be comparable to wheat bread. The main focus of this study was to determine how sorghum, cassava, and fractions (whole and dehulled) of two cowpea varieties cowpea flours and designated flour composites affect the sensory properties of bread based on a flatbread-type food model using descriptive sensory evaluation and gas chromatography analysis. Refined wheat flour and wheat flatbread were used as the reference. The study's first objective was to evaluate the sensory properties of flatbreads prepared from red non-tannin sorghum, cassava starch and fractions (whole and dehulled) of two cowpea varieties and designated flour composites using a trained sensory panel (n=12). The composites were prepared using cassava starch and sorghum flour at 0 %, 35 %, and 70 %, respectively, with 30 % cowpea flour. The effect of cowpea variety and dehulling on sensory properties of cowpea flatbread were investigated. The sensory properties of flatbread prepared from 7 single flour samples and 12 composite flour samples were evaluated by the trained panel by using 10 appearance, 6 aroma, 5 in-mouth texture, 6 flavour and 5 aftertaste descriptors. Flours and flatbreads were subjected to instrumental colour analysis and all flour samples to proximate analysis to aid in explaining sensory attributes of flatbreads. The second objective was to determine the contributions of the sorghum, cassava starch and cowpea flours to the aroma profile of flatbreads prepared from the sorghum, cassava and cowpea composite flour flatbreads by correlating the sensory properties with volatile compounds extracted using solid-phase microextraction (SPME) technique and determined by gas chromatography high-resolution time of flight mass spectrometry (GC-HRTOF-MS). In the sensory study, results showed that the addition of sorghum intensified sorghum aroma in flatbread, while cowpea flours contributed a beany flavour. There was a significant high beany aroma in white cowpea-only flatbreads compared to the red cowpea flatbreads. Sorghum (70 %) and whole cowpea (30 %) flatbreads had intense sorghum aroma, dry appearance, grainy texture and left residual particles after swallowing. Cassava (70%) and (30 %) cowpea flatbreads had a chewier and rubberier mouthfeel, an intense fermented aroma and flavour, a sour aftertaste but were most similar to the wheat flatbread, with a residual beany flavour. The cassava-dehulled cowpea flatbreads had a hue similar to that of the wheat flatbread, and the cassava-dehulled cowpea flours had protein content of 8 – 9 % similar to wheat flour. A total of 283 volatile compounds were detected in flour and flatbread samples, 91 of them having flavour or aroma characteristics reported in literature. Volatile compounds chemical classes included hydrocarbons, aldehydes, alcohols, acids, esters, ketones, benzene derivatives, sulphur and nitrogen-containing compounds, terpenes and terpenoids. Variety influenced the aroma profile of cowpea flour and the resultant flatbread. Whole white cowpea flour had significantly more hexanal and nonanal (p <0.05) relative to whole red cowpea flour. The red cowpea flatbreads had significantly more 1-octen-3-ol, phenylethyl alcohol and decane which differentiated them from the white cowpea flatbreads (p < 0.05). Soaking and dehulling the cowpeas reduced flour hexanal levels while significantly increasing 1-hexanol and 1-octen-3-ol levels in flours and derived flatbreads (p<0.05). Cowpea flatbreads were also characterized by pyrazines with higher levels in flatbread from the dehulled cowpea flour. The main compounds identified in the flatbreads with beany flavour characteristics were dimethyl trisulfide, hexanal, nonanal, 1-octen-3-ol, heptanal, 1-(2-furanyl)-2-butanone and 2-pentylfuran. Dehulling cowpeas increased alcohols and esters in cowpea flours and promoted the formation of pyrazines in cowpea flatbreads. This is the first study that characterised volatile compounds and the effect of dehulling cowpea on volatile compound generation in cowpea bread. Based on partial least square regression, volatile compounds were predicted to contribute to the aroma from sorghum, cassava and cowpea composite flour flatbread. The addition of sorghum flour to a composite flour had a diluting effect on the generation of aldehydes and contributed 2-methoxyphenol, a sweet medicinal aroma and 2-methoxy-4-vinylphenol, a clove-like aroma to the flatbreads. The cassava starch presented a high level of acetic acid and aldehydes, which contributed to the fermented and green aroma in the cassava and cowpea composite flour flatbreads. Fermented attributes were contributed by acetic acid, hexanoic acid and 2-hexenal. The cassava-dehulled cowpea flours have the potential to be used as a wheat flour replacement in flatbread. The sensory properties and the underlying volatile compounds responsible for the aroma perceived from sorghum, cassava and cowpea flatbreads will guide food product developers toward developing new bread products from sorghum, cassava, and cowpea composite flours.
Cooking competence of white young adults residing in Tshwane, South Africa
(University of Pretoria, 2023) Du Rand, Gerrie Elizabeth; Viljoen, Annemarie T.; louelle.ryan@gmail.com; Ryan, Louelle
A decline in cooking competence has become a global concern. Contributing factors include the decrease in cooking competence learning in education institutions, the change in lifestyle and societal norms and the ever-increasing time deficit crisis, which consequently gave rise to the consumption of Ultra-Processed Foods (UPFs), donating to the global obesity epidemic. For this qualitative study, a conceptual framework concerning cooking competence was developed. The conceptual framework guided this study into exploring and describing young couples' cooking knowledge and skills according to their cooking competence dimensions. An Ethnographical strategy of enquiry was used, and the data was gathered through visual ethnography. The key findings revealed a depreciation of cooking competence-related subjects, a change in lifestyle and societal norms and that intergenerational transmission of cooking competence still exists. The time deficit crisis was a significant factor influencing participants cooking competence. Participants were high consumers of UPFs, which can be linked to the decline in cooking competence. Each participant had a unique set of cooking competencies, their cooking knowledge and skills were interrelated and interdependent, and cooking competence was found to contributes to an individual’s food literacy. An adapted cooking competence dimensions table was developed and a new conceptual framework was proposed.
Gauteng's consumers' perception of the quality of food safety at quick-service restaurants : an importance-performance analysis
(University of Pretoria, 2023) Du Rand, Gerrie Elizabeth; Marx-Pienaar, Nadene J.M.M.; lesego.marule@gmail.com; Marule, Lesego
Food consumed away from home has been attributed to time scarcity, single-person households, increase in disposable income, and the lack of interest or skill in food preparation (Blick, Abidoye & Kirsten, 2018). Increased dependency on the foodservice sector has led to the provision of food adapted to new and health-sensitive diets; foodservices’ transparency of production processes; focus on the provision of quality food products; and the provision of food that is safe for consumption. The concern over food safety is real with several cases relating to the foodservice sector (Knight et al., 2007; Liu & Lee, 2018). Underreporting of cases (Ramalwa et al., 2020), implies that many who experience FBI struggle to associate their experiences with the food purchased or consumed at restaurants. The size and growth of the QSR segment has the potential to impact consumers as food is consumed away from home 2-3 times a week. Perception was important in evaluating how consumers interact in these environments and perceive food safety. The study aimed to investigate how consumers perceive the quality of food safety based on the importance of food safety quality cues, and how they have experienced the food safety quality cues within their consumption environments. A mixed-method research approach allowed for 1) identification of food safety quality cues the consumer may encounter within a QSR environment and 2) deployment of a consumer survey to evaluate the consumers’ perception of the quality of food safety. Results revealed that the consumers’ perceptions of the quality of food safety in QSR regarding importance was highly considered in contrast to their experience (performance) of the quality of food safety. Further analysis revealed that demographics played a role in how food safety was perceived, thus having an implication on consumer food safety awareness and education. Recommendations concluded that there is a misalignment in what the QSR staff are trained to do in the production and service of food, what they actually do and how the consumer perceives these efforts, requiring further investigation. Relaying the right information to the consumer is imperative to make correct judgements of staff activities.
Product-specific variables and demographics influence consumers' intention to complain following clothing product performance failure?
(University of Pretoria, 2023) Donoghue, Sune; rozannegrobbelaar@gmail.com; Grobbelaar, Rozanne
Although the clothing retail industry spends valuable resources developing and distributing products, it is becoming increasingly difficult to satisfy consumers. Consumers have high expectations about the functional, expressive and symbolic value associated with clothing. Product dissatisfaction could lead to redress-seeking behaviour and negative repurchase behaviour. Consumers may directly complain to retailers (second parties) or third parties, including newspapers and consumer protection organisations. They may also indirectly or privately express dissatisfaction through traditional negative word-of-mouth or boycotting the retailer. With the advent of the Internet, traditional word-of-mouth has evolved into electronic word-of-mouth (eWOM), allowing consumers to interact with retailers anywhere. Despite existing literature on consumer complaint behaviour in general and particularly complaint behaviour about clothing products, limited research exists about the factors influencing South African consumers' complaint intention due to clothing product failure. This study employed a quantitative research approach using a cross-sectional survey design to describe the relationship between selected product-specific variables, i.e., product cost, product durability, product dissatisfaction, and the severity of the product failure; consumer-related variables, i.e., demographics; and consumer complaint intentions following perceptions of clothing product performance failure. Clothing consumers 19 years or older who reside across South Africa were the unit of analysis. The data was collected with an online questionnaire and analysed using descriptive and inferential statistics. Respondents had to indicate anticipated clothing product failures based on iv a product failure scenario. Items adapted from existing scales were used to measure perceptions of clothing performance failures, consumer complaint intentions, and selected product-specific variables, including product dissatisfaction, product failure severity, and price and durability related to specific consumer complaint behavioural intentions. Respondents had to rate the severity of the anticipated failure and their level of dissatisfaction. Respondents indicated the type of complaint actions they would employ. The results show that most respondents expect structural failures to be more pertinent than aesthetic failures. The EFA resulted in four factors: electronic complaints (Factor 1), complaining to the retailer and consumer protection organisation (Factor 2), switching intention (Factor 3), and negative word-of-mouth (Factor 4). Electronic complaints (negative electronic word-of-mouth) and complaints to the retailer and consumer protection organisation had the lowest mean scores, indicating relatively weak complaint intentions. Switching intention had the highest mean score, followed by negative word-of-mouth, indicating relatively pertinent complaint intentions. Therefore, consumers who purchase much desired expensive clothing items would probably be likely to switch brands or retailers or tell significant others about the product problem when a product failure occurs. However, their intentions to contact the retailer or a consumer protection organisation or to communicate to a broader consumer audience using negative electronic wordof-mouth are relatively weak. Almost all of the respondents indicated they would be very to extremely dissatisfied with the product failure, and most stated the failure would be very to extremely severe. Product price seemed to play a more prominent role in the intentions to contact family/friends or the retailer than product failure severity. Separate univariate ANOVAs were done to compare the effect of the different independent variables on the specific dependent variable. Age, population group, and the likelihood of complaining to the retailer, the higher the product price significantly affected electronic complaint intention (Factor 1). Age, population group, education, product failure severity, the likelihood of telling friends or family, the higher the product price, and the likelihood of complaining to the retailer, the higher the product price affected intention to complain to the retailer and consumer protection organisations (Factor 2). Only product failure dissatisfaction and the likelihood of telling friends or family the more durable the product significantly affected switching intention (Factor 3). Age, product failure dissatisfaction, product failure severity, the likelihood of telling family and friends, the higher the product price, and the likelihood of telling family and friends about the problem, the more durable the product had a significant effect on negative word-of-mouth intention (Factor 4) v Dissatisfied consumers were more likely to engage in private complaint actions when clothing product failure occurs. Respondents had a relatively strong intention to inform their family or friends about their dissatisfaction by telling them in person (or by phoning them) and WhatsApping them. Respondents were also more likely to switch brands and boycott the retailer. Respondents had relatively weak electronic complaint intentions and intentions to complain to retailers and consumer protection organisations. Electronic word-of-mouth and complaints to retailers or consumer protection organisations are visible to retailers. Therefore, retailers should encourage dissatisfied consumers to complain to them to build sustainable long-term relationships with consumers, which are much more profitable in the long run. This study has practical implications for retailers and manufacturers in providing products that best meet consumers' expectations and establishing effective return policies and customer complaint-handling programmes.
Drivers and barriers influencing consumers’ online collaborative clothing consumption practices in the South African market
(University of Pretoria, 2021) Jacobs, B.M. (Bertha Margaretha); Taljaard-Swart, Hanri; sunasym@gmail.com; Brand, Suna
The overall objective of this study was to explore and describe the drivers and barriers influencing consumers’ online collaborative clothing consumption practices in the South African market. The research focused specifically on consumers' actual behaviour that influences participation in three online collaborative clothing consumption business models, namely renting, swapping, and buying second-hand clothing. Furthermore, the influence of motivational drivers (i.e., environmental benefits, economic benefits, hedonic dimensions, need for uniqueness, convenience and social identity (community)) as well as specific barriers (i.e., hygiene issues, unfamiliarity with the concept, materialism, online trust) on consumers’ online collaborative clothing consumption practices were investigated. The term ‘collaborative clothing consumption’ is a relatively new concept, but falls under the sharing economy umbrella. These innovative business models centre around usage in the clothing industry rather than ownership, which could promote economic growth as well as mitigate the environmental impact of the fashion industry. It was considered essential to conduct this research in a South African context as most research on this topic thus far has been conducted in developed markets, such as the USA and Europe. Therefore, in a complex and diverse market like South Africa, research on collaborative clothing consumption is long overdue, especially with regard to the drivers and barriers that influence consumers’ participation. The study followed a survey research design and quantitative approach and was exploratory-descriptive in nature. Data were collected through an online self-administered questionnaire developed on Qualtrics from existing scales. The scales were adapted in accordance with the specific research objectives of the study. Prior to data collection, the online questionnaire was pre-tested to clarify the statements and eliminate any errors before data collection. Primary data were collected from the larger South African consumer population (n= 766) over the age of 18 living in South Africa and who indicated that they participated in online shopping. Although existing scales were used for this study, they have, to date, not been used to establish the relevance of constructs related to South African consumers’ behaviour. Therefore, an exploratory factor analysis (EFA) was performed to isolate relevant constructs and concepts in the dataset and validate the measures' internal consistency. Subsequently, a confirmatory factor analysis (CFA) was performed to confirm the relationships and factorial validity of the model obtained from the EFA. Finally, the measurement model was accepted as the goodness-of-fit statistics indicated satisfactory fit indices. The sharing economy, and in this case, collaborative clothing consumption, has been hailed as a global paradigm shift that would radically shift consumer attitudes towards ownership. However, the findings of this study, confirmed that the uptake of these new business models in South Africa is still in its infancy. Despite the fact that these consumption models are widely revered for being a sustainable and environmentally beneficial solution to overconsumption, the results did not reflect environmental concern as a key driver for participating. Results indicated that consumers still attach too much value to materialism (ownership), economic gains and having fun (hedonism), and far less value on actually changing their consumption practices to aid the environment. As far as the three models were concerned, it was clear that renting, at this stage, has a weak foothold in the South African market. Almost 80% of the participants have never rented clothing which indicates that renting is still very novel amongst the participants. With regard to swapping, this model as an online platform is also not yet commonplace. Most swapping occurs in person between friends and family, and rarely online. Furthermore, very few apps/websites currently facilitate this method of collaborative clothing consumption models seamlessly and effortlessly. The buying of second-hand clothing had a far better uptake amongst the participants, with almost 50% currently buying second-hand clothes. The stigma around buying second-hand is dissolving, as more and more middle to upper-class consumers are 'thrifting' for the thrill of finding unique items. Whether these business models will take off in South Africa on a mass commercial scale remains to be seen but based on the results, they will face several challenges to find a foothold in the consumer's mind at this stage. Retailers considering entering the collaborative clothing consumption market should focus on leveraging the key drivers and addressing the key barriers as highlighted by the findings of this study, in order to entice consumers to participate in these practices.
The South African bread market and consumers' willingness to adopt more sustainable options
(University of Pretoria, 2022) Marx-Pienaar, Nadene J.M.M.; Du Rand, Gerrie Elizabeth; u04542054@tuks.co.za; Kotze, Taryn
Wheat based bread products are a staple in many countries around the world including South Africa (Muzivi & Sunmola, 2021). This is becoming a concern as wheat, from an African perspective presents a two-fold problem. On the one hand regular wheat-based options (which are popular amongst consumers in South Africa), may lead to non-communicable diseases which is indicated to be unconducive towards consumer health. On the other hand, South Africa is a drought prone country and wheat relies heavily on water (Valizadeh, Ziaei & Mazloumzadeh, 2014). Finding innovative solutions or products to bridge this problem is not a simple task, as introducing more sustainable options tend to gain slow traction amongst consumers. To date very little is known about why consumers fail to engage with alternative bread products. This study therefore anticipated to produce empirical evidence of aspects relating to consumers’ preferences and prioritisation of product related attributes when considering bread options. In order to meet the objectives formulated for this study a two phased methodological approach was followed. To commence a Market Quick Scan was used to provide a snapshot of the South African bread market. Results from this phase revealed that most retailers are well stocked in terms of assortment although it was noted that stores still mostly offered regular wheat options with limited alternative grain options. It was observed that prominent trends on the market were related to convenience, pleasure and health, where health options are becoming increasingly prominent on the shelves. To gain insight about consumers’ preferences and prioritisation, a structured, self-administrated electronic questionnaire was called for. Quantitative data was collected from the respondents regarding consumer preferences, actual consumption, prioritisation of product attributes and willingness to adopt alternative bread options. Findings from this phase confirmed that currently alternative bread options (that could be deemed as more sustainable when compared to wheat) are not frequently purchased by the sample. However, in terms of consumers’ preferences and willingness to buy, results indicate that respondents show a high interest and would prefer to buy these products. These results are interpreted as a positive indication that there is a definite scope to introduce these alternatives to the market. In terms of particular product attributes, this study presented that overall, respondents tend to prioritise intrinsic over extrinsic attributes when selecting bread products. Product attributes pertaining to food safety and packaging were indicated as essential attributes to consider when trying to launch or position new products in this current market. This was an interesting point to note as previous studies highlighted the importance of taste and aroma. A possible reason for this could have been the ongoing impact of the COVID-19 pandemic which caused a heightened sense for food safety amongst consumers. Key recommendations from this study concluded that there is definite appetite for alternative bread products but that these options need to comply / reflect specific product characteristics in order to be successful amongst consumers. It is essential that these alternative bread products are made available and easily accessible to consumers at an affordable price. It is essential that producers and retailers include an aspect of familiarity to persuade consumers to purchase and consume these alternative bread products.
The influence of the properties of school uniforms on children with sensory overreactivity
(University of Pretoria, 2021) Diedericks, Lizette; Van Niekerk, Karin; u16015887@tuks.co.za; Jordaan, Wenette
Many children experience a low threshold towards sensory input and as a result, may experience sensory overreactivity (hypersensitivity) to touch, smell, taste, and intolerance for certain material textures (Cheng & Boggett-Carsjens, 2005; Dunn, 1997; Güçlü, Tanidir, Mukaddes & Ünal, 2007). The nervous system responds with “fight’’ (e.g., tantrums) or ‘flight’’ (e.g., withdrawal) reactions when a child experiences sensory discomfort and irritation (Cheng & Boggett-Carsjens, 2005; Karthikeyan, 2017). Children between the ages of 6-13 years spend approximately five days per week and six to nine hours a day wearing a school uniform which provides a constant sensory input to their body (Dąbrowska, Rotaru, Derler, Spano, Camenzind, Annaheim, Stämpfli, Schmid & Rossi, 2016). The impact of constant discomfort and distraction could be detrimental to a child’s education, social participation, play and activities of daily living. While treatment with an occupational therapist surrounding the effects of Sensory Integration Dysfunction is feasible, it is rather important to address the barriers in the child’s environment that may be the root of the discomfort. It is, therefore, imperative to determine which elements of their school uniforms may cause discomfort and irritation, and subsequently implement measures of adaptation. This study used an exploratory mixed-method to approach this problem. The initial qualitative phase included focus group interviews and, the second quantitative phase consisted of an online self-administered questionnaire. The garment elements explored included three main categories namely textiles (fibre content and fabrication), design (necklines and collars, sleeve and sleeve finishes, waistline finishes, closures, wearing ease, and decorative trimmings) and construction (seam type, seam class and type of labelling). It was important to include both parents of children with sensory overreactivity and qualified occupational therapists in phase 1 and solely parents in phase 2. Due to the explorative nature of the study, convenience sampling, purposive sampling, snowball sampling, and quota sampling was employed in gathering 10 participants for the virtual focus group discussions and 106 respondents for the online questionnaire. The data collected in the qualitative phase (phase 1) was implemented in the development of the measuring instrument used in the quantitative phase (phase 2). Data analysis in phase 1 consisted of content analysis and in phase 2, only descriptive statistics due to the exploratory nature of this study. The findings of this study indicate that school uniforms indeed contribute to sensory overreactivity which may influence children’s quality of life detrimentally. Most influential garment elements include fibre content, rough textures, seam types, collars, long-sleeved garments, embroidery, and labelling. Adaptation guidelines were developed for parents of children with sensory overreactivity, which may also be utilised by occupational therapists. In addition, guidelines for schools, retailers offering school clothing, and manufacturers of school garments were also developed. This study provides a vast contribution to new knowledge which may be used to enhance the lives of children with sensory overreactivity, as well as parents, occupational therapists and teachers who work with children with sensitivities. It may furthermore benefit sensory scientists, researchers in the field of textiles and clothing and consumer scientists.
Nutrition competencies of tuck shop owners in relation to nutritional quality of products sold at Tshwane primary school tuck shops
(University of Pretoria, 2021) Pretorius, Adeline; Hoffman, Marinel; nadinedp96@gmail.com; Du Piesanie, N.Z.
Aims This study aimed to determine the relationship between tuck shop owners’ nutrition competency scores in terms of knowledge, skills and behaviour and the nutritional quality percentage scores (measured by the South African Nutrient Profiling Model) of food and beverage products sold at quintile five public and private primary school tuckshops. The relationships between the nutritional quality percentage scores of products sold at tuck shops and nutrition-related training and policies, respectively, were also explored to add insight to the understanding of products sold in participating tuck shops. Methodology In this quantitative cross-sectional study, a total of 33 tuck shop owners from privately owned tuck shops situated across the Third Region of Tshwane, South Africa, were sampled using a stratified random sampling technique. A structured questionnaire was used to assess participants' nutrition competencies and their nutrition training, policy awareness, and implementation in their tuck shops. Observational checklists were used to capture nutrient contents of products sold in participants tuck shops, whereafter, the South African nutrient profiling model was used to calculate a nutritional quality percentage score, indicating the percentage of healthy food products. The relationship between these variables was determined using Pearsons correlation, while Chi-square statistics and independent t-tests were used to determine differences between tuck shops at quintile five and private primary schools Results Tuckshop owners' mean nutrition competency score was 77%, while 57% of food and beverage products sold in tuck shops were classified as unhealthy. No correlation (r=0,12; P=0,478) was found between nutritional quality percentage scores and nutrition competency scores. However, a statistical significant correlation (r=0,41; P=0.017) was found between nutrition-related policy implementation and nutritional quality percentage scores. Furthermore, a statistical significant correlation (r=0,40; P=0.021) was found between nutritional quality percentage scores and nutrition-related training. Conclusion Food and nutrition-related training of tuck shop owners to understand the nutritional needs of learners and implement policies to support a healthy school food environment characterised by the availability of healthy food products may contribute to improved health, growth and development while reducing the risk of NCDs in learners. Keywords: Nutrition competencies, nutritional quality, primary school tuck shops, school food environment
Development of a Total Quality Management tool integrating sustainability practices to address food waste : a case in a University food service unit
(University of Pretoria, 2021) Viljoen, Annemarie T.; Du Rand, Gerrie Elizabeth; nkelepb@ub.ac.bw; Lefadola, Boineelo Pearl
The issue of food waste has gained increasing attention worldwide with growing concern for its environmental, social and economic impact. The volume of food waste generated is alarming, with university food service operations around the world generating a million tonnes of food waste annually. In the context of South African university food service units, research demonstrated that a significant amount of food is wasted. Given the magnitude of the problem of food waste and its associated impact, the current study investigated the causes of food waste in the university food service system, and developed and validated a total quality management (TQM) tool integrating sustainability practices to address food waste. The systems theory was applied to address the issue of food waste holistically. The study further applied the food waste hierarchy framework and adopted ‘prevention’ which is the most favourable and environmentally sound food waste management option. The environmental dimension of the triple bottom line framework of sustainability was also incorporated in the theoretical framework of the study with the interest to consider environmentally friendly strategies. In order to achieve the objectives of the study, a multiphase-mixed methods design comprising three phases (predevelopment, developmental and validation) was employed. In the first phase of the study, a systematic review of the literature was conducted to explore and conceptualise dimensions and indicators of TQM and sustainability practices that prevented food waste. A qualitative case study approach was applied in the second phase in order to investigate the causes of food waste and to gain a deeper understanding of the dimensions and indicators of TQM and sustainability practices that prevented food waste in the specific context of the University food service units. The data collection in this phase involved the integration of four different techniques including document analysis, face-to-face interviews, focus group discussions and participant observation. In the third (validation) phase, two iterations of a modified Delphi technique were employed to validate the tool developed to address food waste. The findings of the study indicated that the inputs, activities in the functional subsystems, management functions, linking processes, outputs, memory, feedback and environmental factors had an influence on food waste. The findings further demonstrated the importance of the TQM approach as a control element contributing to food waste prevention. The TQM practices revealed as important in preventing food waste are quality practices of management, customer focus, employee management and involvement, process quality management, employee knowledge and education, supplier quality management, information and analysis and process and product quality design. A total of 114 indicators of TQM practices were validated as contributing to food waste prevention. The study demonstrated the importance of food-focused sustainable practices, and five indicators of sustainability were validated as important in preventing food waste. The findings of the study contribute to the literature, methodology and have practical implications for University food service operations. The TQM tool integrating sustainability practices developed in this study can be applied in the different parts of the food service system to prevent food waste. The application of the tool can thus benefit the food service units economically, socially and environmentally. Further research is recommended to empirically test the reliability and validity of the tool in practice.
Consumers' knowledge of food fraud and its impact on their purchasing behaviour of organic fresh produce
(University of Pretoria, 2021-12) Marx-Pienaar, Nadene J.M.M.; Fisher, Hennie; kandas_21@yahoo.com; Smit, Christa
“Food fraud” is a globally accepted concept used to refer to the purposeful consumer deception in the sale, advertising or labelling of food or food ingredients to achieve an economic benefit (Curll, 2015). Within the food industry it refers to intentionally adulterating, substituting, diluting, mixing, or adding substances or ingredients to food to give a false perception of its authenticity, value, safety, or quality to obtain illicit financial gain, often to the detriment of consumers (Spink and Moyer, 2011). One of the most adulterated food categories is organics, and the rise in the sale of organic produce in South Africa is markable. Since the legislation that governs organic produce is still under development, it leaves consumers vulnerable to be defrauded financially, and exposes them to health risks. The aim of this study was to make an academic contribution to the body of knowledge related to consumer science. The focus of this research project was to explore and describe consumers’ knowledge of food fraud to identify how this impacts their purchasing behaviour of organic fresh produce. A structured, self-administrated electronic questionnaire was used to collect quantifiable data from respondents recruited by beans of convenience sampling across Gauteng, South Africa. The data analysis made used of descriptive and inferential statistics to test for possible statistically significant differences between demographic groups. Factor analysis was then used to better understand respondents’ subjective and objective knowledge about food fraud. Correlation analysis was used to identify possible underlying relationships between the respondent’s food fraud knowledge and risk aversion/confidence when buying organic fresh produce. Results indicated a statistically significant difference between respondents’ subjective consumer knowledge (with an average score of 61.25%) and their objective consumer knowledge (with an average score of 46.65%). Should these results be reviewed in lieu of the hypothetical cognitive bias described as “the Dunning-Kruger Effect”, it might be deducted that the organic consumer is likely to be vulnerable to the various elements associated with “Food Fraud”. From this, key recommendations could be inferred for how an increased focus on ethical practices from suppliers, retailers, and brand owners would greatly benefit the end-consumer. The development and wide-spread adoption of a reliable accreditation system across the food sector value chain is suggested as mitigation for the psychological and physical risks consumers face due to an inherent knowledge deficit on the topic of “food fraud”.
Millennial consumers’ complaint behavioural intentions following service failure in the online clothing retail context
(University of Pretoria, 2021) Donoghue, Suné; Diedericks, Lizette; cjonker34@gmail.com; Jonker, Chanel
Researchers in consumer complaint behaviour agree that consumers’ complaint intentions are influenced by online service failures. These online service failures include delivery problems, payment security problems, web-page navigational problems, product information problems, and customer service problems. Online service failures cause customer dissatisfaction that could trigger consumer complaint behaviour. Most consumer complaint behaviour researchers concur that the purchasing environment primarily influences consumers’ complaint behavioural intentions. Relevant literature on Millennial consumers and theory on service failures and consumer complaint behaviour was integrated to provide this study's theoretical grounding. This study aimed to determine the Millennial consumers' complaint behavioural intentions following a service failure in the online clothing retail context. This study also determined differences in Emerging, Young and Older Millennials complaint behavioural intentions. A survey research design was implemented, using a structured, self-administered online questionnaire to measure Millennial consumers’ (n = 193) complaint behavioural intentions following a service failure in the online clothing retail context. The self-administered questionnaire made use of existing scales and self-developed questions. Millennial consumers indicated that delivery problems would cause them the most dissatisfaction, followed by payment security problems, customer service problems, product information problems, and webpage navigational problems. The exploratory factor analysis revealed four complaint intention factors. The four factors were labelled as electronic communication, switching behaviour, complaints to the retailer, and negative word-of-mouth. Negative word-of-mouth as private complaint action was the most relatively pertinent complaint intention, followed by switching intention and complaining to the retailer. Electronic WOM was the least pertinent complaint intention. More specifically, an ANOVA test was performed to determine the differences in emerging, young and older Millennials’ complaint behavioural intentions following a service failure in the online clothing retail context. The descriptive results indicated that the majority of the Millennial cohort would instead take action than no action. ANOVA’s were performed to determine the differences across Emerging, Young and Older Millennials’ complaint intentions following a service failure in the online clothing retail context. The ANOVA’s indicated that the three complaint intentions of electronic communication, switching, and complaining to retailers did not vary across the Millennials cohorts. This implies that the respective Millennial groups equally intended to take these individual complaint actions. Also, only word-of-mouth intention differed significantly across the Millennial groups. Older Millennials were less likely to contact family and/or friends in person or by text messaging on WhatsApp than Emerging and Young Millennials. The study makes a valuable contribution towards the consumer complaint behaviour literature and for consideration by online retailers, multi or omni-channel retailers, and marketers of clothing products.

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